11/4/14

travel | sicily | baroque balconies

eastern sicily is renowned for baroque architecture.  especially, baroque balconies.

many of the medieval cities in eastern sicily, including catania, siracusa and ortigia, noto, modica, and ragusa, were relocated or rebuilt following a devastating earthquake in 1693.

map of sicily 
areas affected by the earthquake of 1693
photo credit wikipedia.org

palazzo biscari, considered the finest private building in catania, was built following the earthquake, between 1702 and 1763, by the paternĂ² castello family, who still own the baroque palace.

entry courtyard
palazzo biscari | via museo biscari, 10 | catania, sicily
photo credit tripadvisor.com

palazzo biscari is renowned not only for the baroque balcony on the western wing that has seven sculpted windows...

 baroque balcony with seven windows | sculpted by antonino amato | early 18C
palazzo biscari | catania, sicily

...but also, for the rococo ballroom in the eastern wing that has painted and parcel gilt wall panels and a fresco ceiling depicting the banquet of the gods, the glory of the family biscari.

the palazzo biscari ballroom is often described as the finest rococo room in italy.

 rococo ballroom | fresco ceiling painted by matteo desiderato | 1780-82
palazzo biscari | catania, sicily
photo credit media-cache 

our private tour of palazzo biscari, guided by a member of the paternĂ² castello family, was one of the highlights of our trip to sicily.

our guide was a most enthusiastic historian, who appreciated an interested audience.  in the portrait gallery, he even posed in front of a portrait of one of the princes of biscari so that we could see how much he looks like his ancestor.  especially, in profile!

the palazzo nicolaci di villadorata in noto was built during the same time period as the palazzo biscari, between 1701 and 1765.

the palazzo nicolaci is most famous for its six baroque balconies with anthropomorphic corbels.  the palazzo nicolaci balconies are considered iconic examples of sicilian baroque architecture.  and, symbols of the eight late baroque towns of the val di noto (noto valley), which are included on the UNESCO world heritage list.

via corrado nicolaci | noto, sicily
left:  palazzo nicolaci di villadorata
center:  chiesa di montevergine
right:  palazzo modica di san giovanni


 
 balcony of the adolescents
villa nicolaci di villadorata | via corrado nicolaci | noto, sicily


 balcony of the lions 
 villa nicolaci di villadorata | noto, sicily

 view of noto from the balcony of the lions
 villa nicolaci di villadorata | noto, sicily


 
balcony of the mermaids
 villa nicolaci di villadorata | noto, sicily


 balcony of the turks 
 villa nicolaci di villadorata | noto, sicily


balcony of the winged horses
 villa nicolaci di villadorata | noto, sicily


 balcony of the adolescents 
villa nicolaci di villadorata | noto, sicily

typically, sicilian baroque balconies have carved corbels and 'goose breast' wrought iron railings, which were supposedly designed to accommodate the full skirts of 18th century women's dresses. 

diagram | sicilian baroque balcony
photo credit michelin green guide | sicily | p. 86



palazzo cosentini | corso giuseppe mazzini | ragusa ibla, sicily


 palazzo la rocca | via capitano bocchieri, 31-33 | ragusa ibla, sicily
now ristorante duomo and one of the ragusa ibla tourist offices
 palazzo tommasi rosso-tedeschi | corso umberto I | modica bassa, sicily

some palazzos are in better condition than others.


 

villa mazza di villallegra | via vittorio emanuele II | catania, sicily
photo credits panoramio.com  and lisa walsh | innerspace


 
 corso san giorgio, 87 | modica alta, sicily
photo credits lisa walsh | innerspace




corso san giorgio, 73 | modica alta, sicily
photo credits lisa walsh | innerspace


corso san giorgio, 23 | modica alta, sicily
did you notice the corbel in the lower right corner?


corso san giorgio, 89 | modica alta, sicily


palazzo napolino-tommasi rosso | corso francesco crispi | modica alta, sicily


palazzo rubino-trombadore | corso umberto I | modica bassa, sicily
photo credits lisa walsh | innerspace

many sicilian baroque balconies have figural brackets.  but, many more have volute or scroll shaped corbels.



palazzo nicastro | corso giuseppe mazzini | ragusa ibla, sicily


palazzo sortina trono | piazza degli archi | ragusa ibla, sicily 
photo credits lisa walsh | innerspace

 
 
palazzo impellizzeri-vianisi | via della maestranza, 17 | ortigia, sicily
photo credits lisa walsh | innerspace


via camillo benso conte di cavour, 48 | noto, sicily
flat for sale (vende) 



palazzo danieli-rizza | via della maestranza, 110 | ortigia, sicily
photo credits antoniorandazzo.it and lisa walsh | innerspace


palazzo rau della ferla | via silvio spaventa | noto, sicily
photo credits appartamentofragola.altervista.org and lisa walsh | innerspace


palazzo cilestri | via etnea, 116 | catania, sicily
now a coin department store
  
travel tips:
where to find baroque balconies in eastern sicily.
and, some other scenic places to visit.

catania
via crociferi
 
villa bellini botanical park | catania, sicily
photo credit turismo in sicilia

ortigia
via della maestranza
via vittorio veneto (aka via mastrarua)
 bridge from siracusa to ortigia | ortigia, sicily
photo credit turismoambientalesicilia.it

noto
via corrado nicolaci
via camillo benso conte di cavour 
corso vittorio emanuele
via silvio spaventa
 view of noto from the balcony of accolades | villa nicolaci di villadorata | noto, sicily
left:  palacio ducenzio, now the noto town hall

ragusa ibla
corso giuseppe mazzini
via capitano bocchieri

piazza degli archi
 view of ragusa ibla | ragusa, sicily
blue roof:  chiesa santa maria dell'itria 
photo credit luisa iengo

modica
corso umberto I
corso francesco crispi
corso san giorgio


300 steps from modica bassa to modica alta
from corso umberto I to the duomo di san giorgio  | modica, sicily
photo credits lisa walsh | innerspace
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